Get Rid Of Mice Fast!
How To Control Mice
A mouse infestation is terrible news for your health, property and your food is at risk if mice are not controlled quickly.
So what is the Intelligent Mouse Control System that’s ending the traditional cycle of Bait-Stink-Flies-Repeat? Customers are now enjoying the tranquillity of a rodent-free home because we do our best to check everything.
Rodent control requires us to look past mouse traps, shredded paper and disease. Instead, we need to first consider the most obvious of all questions. “How did the mice get into your property?” Exclusion is the most effective and humane form of control.
Mouse poison might seem attractive until you find yourself sharing your home with the stench of a dead rodent.
Exclusion should come slightly after control so dead or dying rodents have an opportunity to leave the building.
What Diseases Could A Mouse Transmit?
Mouse borne diseases and parasites
Those Most At Risk Include Children, Pregnant Women, The Elderly and people Convalescing.
Salmonella – Severe and sometimes fatal food poisoning.
Tularemia – If bitten by a rodent tularemia bacteria can attack your immune system and lungs.
Leptospirosis – Weil’s disease – a notifiable disease, leading to multi-organ failure and death.
E.coli 0157 – This frightening disease from rodent faeces causes renal failure and intestinal bleeding.
Lymphocytic Choriomeningitis – Viral Meningitis that starts of innocently like the flue.
Plague – Very rare in this country, but cannot be excluded from thought.
How Mice Spread Diseases And Parasites
Routes of Disease Transmission Include:
Biting – you, your children, family, pets or livestock
Urine & Droppings – Infecting your groceries and work surfaces with urine and over 30 droppings each per night
Being eaten – by your pets
Contaminating – pets and your pet’s food and water
Spreading – blood-sucking parasites like fleas and mites
Contaminating – water supplies especially where they fall into water tanks
What Do Mice Look Like?
Key Features of The House Mouse (Mus musculus):
Diseases Include; Bubonic plague, Typhus and Weil’s disease
Life Span: 18 Months
Length (body only): 15 – 20 cm (body only) – up to 45cm including tail
Weight: 20g when mature
Colour: black, grey
Sexual Maturity: 4 Weeks
Gestation Period: 19 days
Number of litters: 8 per year
Number of young: 6 – 8 per litter
Diet: They are Omnivores, feeding on almost anything.
Daily food: 2.8g
Daily water intake: 1.5ml
What Are Mice?
The mouse is a common species of rodent commonly symbolized in children’s books as being cheerful creatures with pointed noses, round ears and a thin tail.
This isn’t that far from the truth as mice are generally quite agile, discreet and cute to look at.
many mouse species are considered pests of both economic and medical importance because of the damage they inflict on food stocks, and because some of the diseases they carry are transmittable to humans.
Another important consideration focuses attention on the rate at which these rodents are able to reproduce.
If conditions are right, mice develop populations of plague proportions, in a very small amount of time.
The only good news is that mouse control problems will be settled fairly easily if we apply the right mix of pest management approaches.
What Kinds of Mouse Are There In Bristol?
The UK is home to many types of rodent but as we scale down by species, we only have a small number of mouse species.
Common species of mouse you might encounter as pests include the Wood Mouse (Apodemus sylvaticus), House Mouse (Mus musculus) and the Yellow-Necked Mouse (Apodemus flavicollis).
For the sake of simplicity, these define the three UK species of mouse noted as pests within properties.
What Does A Mouse Eat?
Mice are omnivores (they eat anything), with a strong preference for cereal-based food products. A varied diet is a significant reason these rodents are so successful in so many different habitats.
Where Do Mice Come From?
Three different species of mouse commonly enter buildings for food and shelter.
The most likely species in your home are the Wood mouse (Apodemus sylvaticus), House Mouse (Mus musculus) and Yellow-Necked Mouse (Apodemus flavicollis).
These little rodents have been present within the United Kingdom for millennia, and are nothing new. Some people think these mice first appeared after being brought to our shores by the Romans, but no one can really decide.
How Do You Control Mice?
We control mice in two ways. The first and most popular method is to control populations with lethal control methods.
The second and least popular method includes exclusion and environmental control. So what’s the difference?
Popular methods of lethal mouse control include Trapping (cages, snap-traps, glue boards) and Poisoning (bait, liquid feeds, contact poisons).
Favoured methods of environmental mouse control
- Proofing/Exclusion (preventing a mouse from entering an area)
- Line of sight (ensuring areas of cover, concealment and encouragement have been eliminated).
Successful management of pest problems associated with mouse activity demands you employ a variety of these methods.
Only using a combine, integrated mouse control methodology is it possible to rid yourself of mice successfully over the longer term.
However, the fact remains that adjoining properties might not share your proactive stance, and in time the rodent population will return.
It might be in five minutes or five years, but eventually, they will return – and you must be ready for them!
Why Are Mice In Your House?
Mouse control is sometimes a complex task, but commonly the best scenario is to always focus on controlling the rodent population as close to its source as possible.
Buildings provide easy routes of entry for a mouse looking to secure a safe place to live or new food resources.
Homes in need of structural repairs and proofing that might not be immediately obvious are prime targets for infestation.
Proofing by experts like ourselves will solve a mouse problem for good, sometimes without poison.
Poison and traps have their place, but repairs and proofing are always preferable because they solve the pest problems and don’t just subdue it for a few weeks or months. Remember – exclusion is always the most humane form of control.
How Mice Get In Your Attic
Rodents enter attics, and loft spaces through a variety of means that include climbing plants, overhanging trees, building faults and even adjoining properties, primarily through the attics and floor voids.
Mice are living outdoors and only venture into buildings as autumn temperatures start to dip. House mice are one exception to this rule.
Climbing Plants offer rodents a convenient route of entry into your attics, lofts and crawl spaces.
Plants like Wisteria, Virginia Creeper, Clematis, Ivy, Jasmine and Roses offer a perfect climbing frame for rodents to climb. Once a mouse reaches your gutters, it usually squeezes under the tiles and enters your loft.
The best way to manage this is to ensure that you have at least 12 inches of clearance between the highest reaches of your roof and the plant.
Rodents will often climb the rest of the way but their range might be significantly curtailed.
Almost all broadleaf trees will very quickly develop sprawling branches that grow over and onto your roof.
Sprawling branches and plants like vines and ivy, create the perfect natural ladder.
With branches, we recommend a clearance of at least a meter to perturb not just mice, but also squirrels and rats.
Building faults are usually the most likely place for rodents to enter your property at ground level.
The most likely entry points include damaged air vents and tumble dryer vents together with holes in defective render and pointing.
Two areas we find that customers miss again, and again, is beneath pipes that come through walls or the unfilled holes where previous pipes were located.
From above it might look as though pipework is well sealed as it passes through external walls, but running your finger under the pipe might reveal a gap larger than 10mm, perfect for a mouse.
Adjoining buildings can be significant and utterly dreadful sources of mouse activity. Mouse control problems that originate from a neighbour are often difficult to treat effectively.
In some areas we see terraced houses that are over 100 properties long, making lasting elimination almost impossible.
Rodents of all kinds will travel through attics, under floors and along gutters to find food and other resources and sometimes a mouse will decide to stay.
It’s a sad and disturbing truth that rodents from adjoining properties are hard to eliminate quickly.
The best you can hope for is that any mouse activity remains concealed inside the structure of the building and not your living space, without damaging wires.
In a terraced property or flat, vast quantities of bait can disappear in just a few weeks, because you are controlling the population in an entire terrace or block of flats and not only your own home.
If this happens, it is not the fault of your pest controller who will have little if any control or influence over the activity in other peoples homes.
Once again – find the entry point and you solve the mouse control problem because exclusion is the game!
If all else permanently fails, your final option is proofing or excluding rodents from your living space and accept that they will always be in the walls, under floors and in roof and ceiling voids.
At least you will have the security of a mouse free living space.
Mouse Damage To Cables & Electrical Services
Electrical services should be checked to ensure you are safe. Many properties still have outdated wire fuses in their fuse box or consumer units.
Mice, squirrels and rats have all been the cause of fires. Modern trip switches found in today’s electrical systems make your home much safer and allow you to sleep at night without fear of fire.
Knowing where and how to locate and set traps is a fine art. The top mouse trap baits include dark chocolate, peanut butter and raisins.
Traps must be held in place with wire to avoid mice caught by their tail, or a single leg, dragging traps off into places you can’t reach.
Rodent baits include pastes, grains, wax blocks and liquid poisons. Rodent experts have a huge range of products available to them whereas amateur users are much more restricted.
Baits must be secured or well protected from non-target species if possible, or be secured in bait stations.
A mouse proof property should never need further control, so exclusion is always an essential component of control.